The first thing that hits you isn’t a sight, but a sound. It’s the distant, rhythmic clang of a temple bell, a sound that seems to vibrate in the very air you breathe. Then comes the scent—a complex perfume of marigold flowers, sweet incense, and the ancient, earthy smell of the river Ganga.

I’ve just returned from Varanasi, and I can tell you this: it’s not a destination you simply visit. It’s an experience that washes over you, changes you, and stays with you long after you’ve left.

They call it Kashi, the “City of Light.” They call it Banaras. And they call it one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited cities. For a traveler, especially one with a spiritual inclination, Varanasi is the ultimate pilgrimage. It’s chaotic, intense, and profoundly beautiful. It’s a city that holds the cycles of life and death in its open hands for all to see.

If you’re planning a trip, you’re likely filled with questions. I know I was. Is it overwhelming? What should I see? How do I navigate it all respectfully? This guide is my answer to those questions—a collection of my experiences, insights, and practical advice to help you connect with the soul of this incredible city.

Why Varanasi? Understanding the Heart of Kashi

Before you even step on a plane, it helps to understand why this city is so important. For Hindus, Varanasi is the most sacred place to die. It is believed that passing away here, on the banks of the holy Ganges, grants moksha—liberation from the endless cycle of rebirth. This single belief infuses every corner of the city with a spiritual gravity you won’t find anywhere else.

But it’s not just about death. It’s a celebration of life in its most raw and unfiltered form. It’s a city where the ancient past isn’t in a museum; it’s being lived out in the labyrinthine alleyways and on the stone steps of the ghats every single day.

The Ghats: The Living, Breathing Soul of Varanasi

Varanasi has over 80 ghats—long flights of stone steps leading down to the river. You could spend days just exploring them, as each has its own unique character. The ghats are the city’s heart, its public square, and its sacred space all at once. My advice? Start at one end and walk. Here are the essential ones you can’t miss.

Dashashwamedh Ghat: The Grand Spectacle

This is the main event. Dashashwamedh is the biggest, busiest, and most famous ghat. During the day, it’s a whirlwind of activity: holy men (sadhus) with ash-smeared faces offering blessings, boatmen calling out for passengers, families performing rituals, and children flying kites. It’s a sensory overload in the best possible way. This is the place to be for the evening Ganga Aarti, but more on that later. I found myself just sitting on the steps for an hour, watching the world go by. It’s the entire human experience on one stage.

Assi Ghat: The Southern Soul

Located at the far southern end, Assi Ghat has a more relaxed, bohemian vibe. It’s popular with long-stay travelers, researchers, and students. Every morning, just before sunrise, Assi Ghat comes alive with “Subah-e-Banaras,” a daily program of morning ragas, Vedic chants, and a fire ritual, followed by mass yoga. Waking up early to experience this was one of the highlights of my trip. It’s a much calmer, more introspective start to the day compared to the energy of Dashashwamedh.

Manikarnika and Harishchandra Ghats: A Brush with Moksha

This is the part of Varanasi that requires the most respect and understanding. Manikarnika is the primary “burning ghat,” where funeral pyres burn 24/7. It is an incredibly powerful and sobering sight.

A note on etiquette: It is crucial to approach these ghats with reverence. Do not take photographs or videos. This is a private, sacred moment for grieving families. The best way to observe is from a respectful distance, either from a boat on the river or from an overlooking viewpoint. The air is thick with smoke and the weight of final goodbyes. Yet, it’s not morbid. It’s seen as a celebration, a soul’s final journey to liberation. Witnessing it strips away your own notions about mortality and leaves you with a profound sense of peace.

The Ganga Aarti: A Symphony of Fire and Faith

If you do only one thing in Varanasi, let it be this. Every single evening at Dashashwamedh Ghat, a spectacular ritual of worship unfolds. As dusk settles, seven priests in saffron robes take their places on raised platforms, facing the river.

To the sound of synchronized chanting, bells, and cymbals, they perform a choreographed ceremony with massive, multi-tiered brass lamps, incense, and conch shells. The energy is electric. The smoke from the lamps, the scent of sandalwood, and the unified faith of the hundreds gathered create an atmosphere that is truly mesmerizing.

Traveler’s Tip: You have two main options for viewing. You can either find a spot on the crowded ghat steps (get there at least an hour early) or hire a boat. I chose the boat. Watching the spectacle from the gentle sway of the Ganga, with the lamps reflecting on the dark water, was an unforgettable experience. As the ceremony ends, you’ll see hundreds of small leaf boats carrying candles and flowers (diyas) floating down the river—prayers sent sailing into the night.

Getting Lost in the Labyrinth: The Ancient Alleys of the Old City

Behind the ghats lies a maze of narrow alleyways, or gallis, that make up the Old City. This is where the real Varanasi lives. Getting lost here isn’t a possibility; it’s a guarantee, and it’s part of the magic.

These alleys are too narrow for cars, so you share them with pedestrians, wandering holy cows, and the occasional scooter that seems to defy physics. In these gallis, I stumbled upon:

• Tiny, centuries-old shrines hidden between buildings.

• Hole-in-the-wall shops selling silk sarees and lustrous brassware.

• Stalls serving up the most delicious, piping hot kachoris (a savory pastry).

• The famous Blue Lassi shop, a tiny institution that has been serving over 80 varieties of lassi for generations.

Don’t be afraid to wander aimlessly. Every turn reveals something new. It feels like walking through history itself.

Beyond the River: Temples and a Day Trip to Sarnath

While the Ganga is the city’s focal point, its spiritual life extends far beyond the banks.

Kashi Vishwanath Temple

One of the most revered Hindu temples in India, dedicated to Lord Shiva. The current structure, with its iconic gold-plated spires, was built in the 18th century. Security is extremely tight; phones, cameras, and bags are not allowed inside. You’ll need to store them in a locker nearby. The experience of walking barefoot through the temple corridor, amidst a sea of fervent devotees, is intense and deeply spiritual.

A Day Trip to Sarnath: The Birthplace of Buddhism

Just 10 kilometers from the chaos of Varanasi lies a place of profound peace: Sarnath. This is where the Buddha gave his first sermon after attaining enlightenment. The contrast is astonishing. The manic energy of Varanasi gives way to serene gardens, tranquil monasteries, and the imposing Dhamek Stupa, a massive structure marking the spot of the first teaching. Visiting the Sarnath Museum, which houses the iconic Lion Capital of Ashoka (now India’s national emblem), is a must. Sarnath offers a perfect day of quiet reflection, a necessary counterpoint to the intensity of Kashi.

The Flavors of Varanasi: A Culinary Journey

The food in Varanasi is a delight—simple, vegetarian, and incredibly flavorful. It’s an essential part of the experience. Be sure to try:

• Kachori Sabzi: The quintessential Banarasi breakfast. Fried, fluffy kachoris served with a spicy potato curry.

• Malaiyyo: A magical winter delicacy. This saffron-infused milk foam is so light it dissolves in your mouth. It’s like eating a cloud.

• Banarasi Paan: An intricate preparation of betel leaf filled with various sweet and savory ingredients. It’s a digestive aid and a cultural institution.

• Thandai and Lassi: Varanasi is famous for these yogurt-based drinks. You can find them everywhere, but the little, established shops are the best.

Practical Tips for the Spiritual Traveler

Navigating Varanasi is easier when you’re prepared. Here’s my advice:

• Best Time to Visit: The cooler, dry winter months from October to March are ideal. Summers are scorching hot, and the monsoon (July-September) can cause the river to flood the ghats.

• What to Wear: Dress modestly. This is a holy city. Both men and women should wear clothes that cover their shoulders and knees. Loose, breathable fabrics like cotton or linen are perfect.

• Getting Around: You’ll be doing a lot of walking in the Old City. For longer distances, cycle rickshaws are great for a slow, scenic ride, while auto-rickshaws are faster. Be sure to agree on the fare before you get in.

• A Note on Scams: You may be approached by people offering to be your guide, to show you a “special” ceremony, or to take you to a silk shop where you’ll be pressured to buy. A firm but polite “No, thank you” (Nahi, shukriya) usually works. Trust your gut.

   

• Patience is Key: Varanasi operates on its own time. Things can be loud, crowded, and slow. Embrace the chaos. Don’t try to rush it. Let the city lead you.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: Is Varanasi too intense or overwhelming for a first-time visitor to India?

A: It can be. Varanasi is a full-on sensory experience. If it’s your first stop, be prepared. However, if you come with an open mind and a patient heart, its intensity becomes its greatest strength. Starting your days at a quieter place like Assi Ghat can help you ease into it.

Q: How many days are enough for Varanasi?

A: I would recommend a minimum of three full days. This gives you one day to explore the northern ghats and the Aarti, one day for the southern ghats and the Old City, and one day for Sarnath and any other temples. More time is always better to simply soak it all in.

Q: Is it safe to drink the water or eat street food?

A: Stick to bottled water. For street food, the golden rule is to eat at busy stalls where the food is cooked fresh and hot in front of you. I ate plenty of street food and was perfectly fine.

A City That Stays With You

I left Varanasi with my camera full of photos, but my mind full of moments: the quiet dignity of a family performing last rites, the joyful shouts of kids jumping into the Ganga, the serene face of a sadhu lost in meditation, the taste of a perfect lassi in a crowded alley.

Varanasi is not a checklist of sights to be ticked off. It’s a feeling. It’s the raw, unfiltered truth of humanity. It’s a city that challenges you, inspires you, and ultimately, connects you to something ancient and essential. It’s the City of Light, and if you let it, it will undoubtedly light up a part of your soul.